This can be done in regular b/w chemicals too if you prefer. If you are going to develop with coffee consider overexposing by one to two stops depending on your lighting conditions because the coffee developer will pull (underexpose) your shots, which I had to figure out the hard way. Note: You can adjust amounts to 8tsp coffee, 2 tsp washing soda, 8 oz water. Hang dry in a dust free area then get your scan on.Note: This helps it dry quicker with less streaks. 12 ounces water add half cap rubbing alcohol and rinse before hanging.Recycle fixer back then rinse again under faucet a bit.Fix for ten minutes with 12 ounces fixer agitating three times per minute and tapping it.Rinse three times with 12 ounces water (equates to agitate five to six times each).Give it a good tap on the table or floor after each agitation to loosen air bubbles. Agitate contantly first minute then slowly three times every remaining minute. Note: Aim for 20 degrees C or 68 degrees F and try to keep it constant.
Dissolve in 12 ounces water and let stand five to ten minutes to clear bubbles. 1 crushed up chewable vitamin C (1/4 teaspoon powdered vitamin C even better) Note: Not sure exactly if this does anything, but powdered is supposed to cut down on dev. 3 teaspoons washing soda (I use Arm & Hammer). 6 teaspoons instant coffee (I use Nescafe) Note: Ground Coffee will not work!. I would also recommend using a 100 to 200 iso film because these processing times relate to that and change for higher iso. I would highly recommend using cheap film at first if you haven’t developed with coffee yet, but if you decide to use standard black and white processing chemicals then just go for it. Another cool thing about doing this is that you can also scan the negatives as black and white and get great results. I heard you can get various color shifts depending on the film type used, based on film layer chemistry, but this is my experience thus far with Kodak Gold 100 and Longs Advantage 200 both expired. It will give you characteristics similar to a cyanotype print. This is a really cool method I have been experimenting with. It is possible to develop film with coffee, here is a good tip! To 763ml developer replenisher add 207ml water - 30ml starter.Writer and photography / Lomography tipster To make 1 liter of working developer from LOOR Replensher: There is no need for the developer replenisher to contain bromine, as the tank continuously gains bromine as film is developed. In a replenished developer tank, bromine restrainer is a one-time addition used to pre-season a fresh tank. In other words, the bromine is a needed restrainer. If bromine is not present, the film will be over-developed - plus it will have a high fog level. By selective, it has the ability to differentiate between exposed and unexposed silver salt crystals. This chemical enables the developer to be selective. Now bromine compounds are required in a developer formulation. The halogen, chiefly a bromine compound, is dissolved by the waters of the developer. Additionally, as exposed silver salts develop, they are fragmented into metallic silver, and a halogen component of the crystal is liberated. This is barely above the carry-out rate (fluid riding piggyback on film as it leaves the developer tank).Īs film develops, the developer solution weakens as the developing agents become exhausted. The replenishment rate is 17ml per meter of 35mm film. The idea is to reduce sewer or haul away burdens. The LOOR formula has a reduced replenishment rate. 
The Kodak LOOR Replenisher is formulated for use in continuous film developing machines of the mini-lab type. So, if I prepare 1L of "developer replenisher solution", Would I need to dilute it further with around 200ml of water that would come from the developer starter (which I don't have), or should I just use this developer "straight"? To this solution, understand I'm supposed to add the whole 1L of solution of 660-1074 Developer Starter.
I noticed though that starters will significantly dilute the chemicals: Preparing the full 5L of developer from my kit would yield 5L of "developer replenisher solution". Anyways, I placed the order, and I didn't check the confirmation, but they removed both the bleach and developer starters.Ĭan I still use the developer and bleach without starters? I understand some colors may be a bit off, but I'm willing to take the risk (the first roll will be for testing purposes mostly). I didn't believe this (I think it would be actually the opposite: a machine process would eventually "season itself" with film running through it. The salesman told me over the phone that "starters aren't really needed for hand processing, they are only for machine processing". I recently bought a set of chemicals for Kodak C-41.
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